Not all are created equal.
“It felt like my best friends house”
Costa Rican Beans are at the forefront of excellence. The climate, terrain, soil and altitude make it one of the most ideal growing locations for Coffee in the world. In 1989 the Costa Rican government made it illegal for coffee plantations to grow anything other than Arabica coffee plants. This legislation set the stage for this small central American country to shine on the world coffee stage.
There are essentially 8 separate growing regions outlined below. These areas all represent high quality harvests but are distinct in their outcomes. With that being said, we will be taking a deeper dive into the northern region of Guanacaste. It is here where I had the opportunity to explore the mountain regions and dissect the gourmet coffee of Costa Rica.
First and Foremost the beans I examined were on another level. The size and color of these plants were incredible. Unlike Kona, HI or the Northern Regions of Vietnam farmers around this area let the coffee plants get to a much larger size. Some varieties I encountered were over 15 feet tall and pruned less intrusively. By approaching the coffee in this way the farmers can see a larger yield from a single plant but must reduce the quantity of total plants.
“The sheer size and fullness of the cherries was quite remarkable”
So it’s no mystery that the bean within the yield tended to be on the larger size. Also of note, the general lack of pea berry selections. I followed up on two different occasions to inquire if some of these farms offered these little mutants, However I failed to locate any of consistent quality.
Costa Rica pound for pound has incredible coffee beans. The country has a strict no spray approach to agriculture. The understories of these plantations also provide countless species and biological diversity. This coupled with the increase in natural insects and you see a balance. Farmers are so often trying to Min/Max crop yields without looking at the ramifications of Mono-crop, industrial herbicide, industrial pesticide and clear cutting. These short sighted approaches seek only the capitalization of the land and not the benefit to all living things.
Here in this wonderful paradise law makers and community members alike seem to have noticed. There are strict governance of natural farming initiatives imbedded in the local and national policies. When you walk through the rain forest an overwhelming beauty resonates in the air. You can feel the lush growth and vibrancy.
“It lacks Humanity though”
The aroma will set you free
We had the opportunity to spend several days in the bay recently. However I was worried our outing would be spoiled due to the tightened Covid-19 protocols. My worries were for naught as I found the progressive city had comprehensively addressed a lot of our concerns.
My relationship with the bay is complicated. I personally am in love with that city. The food, people and weather are without a doubt the best place in America. My financials though have never been strong enough to withstand the cost of living. The housing and taxes have made this place out of reach. So in that sense I hate it. I will probably never get the chance to live there…. and that makes me cherish every interaction.
During this trip we stayed in the financial district just inside Chinatown. Which is prime because it walking distance to almost everything. We lucked out this time too because the Cable cars were free this August. All in all the situation was setup real nice. Typically I like to get my morning coffee in the city at new places I have never been but my default is Cafe Triste. Its storied past, chill vibe and consistently great coffee make it one of the best places to enjoy your morning routine. The funny thing is I was on my way to Triste when I popped in to Réveille Coffee Co.
The corner location was perfectly suited for walk-ins and the aroma spilling onto the street was sublime. My first time here I actually ended up ordering two different drinks because my curiosity was peaked. The staff treated me like a local and the beverages were stellar. My first affair started with a dirty Matcha latte and I continued my encounter with double espresso. All in all I spent over an hour enjoying this haven. The moment I left is when I started planning my next visit. What should I try? I wonder how the drip is? These were the thoughts flooding my caffeinated mind as I strolled into Chinatown for some Dim Sum.
Matcha
Throughout my 5 days in the city I spent nearly all of my mornings visiting this crush. The place just felt good. It was convenient, delicious and dare I say romantic. The people watching and city sounds surround and fill the space, giving the patron a hypnotizing dance of daily routine.
If you come into contact with Réveille stop in and stay awhile. I guarantee you will like it.
I visit the Big Island to explore the Kona coffee craze and breakdown some of the United States best known coffee farming. When our trip to the Hawaii finally came to fruition my number 2 thought was about the coffee. The number 1 was of course swimming in some of the most beautiful waters in the world. Coffee here is actually really old. In the early 1800’s folks started trying to plant these babies. With that being said Kona coffee in Hawaii is king. almost 95% of all coffee produced on the Hawaiian islands is Hermann Widemanns “Kona Typica”. Why ?
Drifting
The temperature, rain, altitude and soil drainage make these volcanic paradises ideal for the cash crop. With that being said is the Juice worth the squeeze? Since Hawaiian farmers are limited in the area coffee beans can be grown and labeled Kona Coffee “Supply” is the word. About 2.7 million pounds of coffee beans are produced each year. So getting a roasted lb. under 20$ is rare. That being said sometimes you have to pay to play. I was able to sample a variety of coffees. We tried every roast and sampled directly from several different farms. The average price per lb. was around 34$. With the cheapest being 26$ and the most expensive being 65$. Funny thing is… the most expensive was the best.
Southern Miranda Farms, red cherries almost ready for harvest.
Coffee has to be picked by hand in order for the farmers to get their perfectly ripe timings. This inherently drives the cost up as well. Coupled with Hawaii’s growing NO SPRAY (organic) policy its no mystery why these beans drive such a premium. Do I feel they merit such a cost? Yes and No. From the main stay brands like Greenwell and others the quality of the bean is superb. However the roasts seem timid and unremarkable. I must of tried 10 different brews and yet I hardly remember a single one. The natural sweetness that comes with tropical sun seems lost. Maybe this is due to trying to appeal to the everyday American Starbucks drinker. Or perhaps these organizations are caught up in traditionalism. Either way the coffee is disappointing. The Peaberry varieties stood out but marginally.
Greenwell farms, drying platforms.
However… if you search hard enough, and I mean hard. You can find places that bring the fire. Like Rooster Farms up the hill. They use a 1960’s sivetz coffee air roaster. They also roast in parchment, hand pick, polyculture farm and of course they use only organic practices. So from farm to table the coffee is outstanding. The flavors are bold and deep and the vibe is on point. Its not the best brew that has ever crossed my lips but it was really good. So good in fact that I have since ordered more.
Rooster Farms, Me helping with the drying process.
In the end I can conclude that the species of bean itself is not any better than the dozens of others that I have tried. While the weather and location might be paradise on earth it still takes people to craft it. People to tinker with each seasons batches. People to pick the perfect ingredients and people to foster the growth of the future. 97% of this drink is water. That 3% matters. Its those who dedicate themselves and pour their energy into making an outstanding product that make the difference. The dark roast was my favorite. Their Ethiopian was just okay. Fin.
Welcome to the first Annual Best of the Best Roast challenge. I am naming it aptly “The All Valley”. My focused was to find the best Roaster in the Phoenix Area. I have hand picked 5 candidates to test. Each representing an established pedigree from the our small industry. I wanted to play it close to the chest with this one so I tried my best to source beans from all over the Metropolitan area. These contenders symbolize our cream of the crop.
Selection Process
First, I started by assembling the previous champions according past yearly award winners. I assembled the 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 Phoenix New Times title holders. Then, I selected an old favorite and lastly a hidden gem.
Secondly I constrained each Roaster to the following criteria; must be local, they must roast on site and the bean must be a consumer grade variety under 30$ a lb. No Geisha’s!
I sought to make this competition objective and fair. My hope is to highlight the local skill and art of roasting. This individualism and identity is lost in the commercialism that is modern coffee. With all of mega bean vendors and mixed crop year blends I wanted to take this assessment from a genuine standpoint. My controls for my testing were as follows. All the beans selected were roasted within 10 days of the test. All the beans selected were Medium Roasts. I selected the type of bean by simply asking the barista, “ What is your best Medium Roast?” when they replied I purchased the beans and went along my merry way. So please don’t think I have been prejudice because of the region or type. I am simply following the advice of the vendor subject matter experts.
Meet your participants:
From the West side and the 2014 Best Coffee winner we selected the established Ground Control Coffee to impress us. They brought a Brazilian medium roast from the region of Mogiana. This once darling child has since chilled off since its introduction into the area. Lets see if they are still producing some of the best java in town.
Cost Per Pound: 17$
4860 N. Litchfield Rd. Litchfield Park, AS 85340 https://groundxcontrol.com
2. From downtown we have selected the 2015 Phoenix Times best coffee roaster Press. They brought a Guatemalan medium roast called Las Flores. This ever expanding juggernaut of a Cafe chain has garnished a large following. These fans have helped establish a strong report in the Valley of the Sun. Lets see if this juice is worth the squeeze.
Cost Per 12oz: 24$
1616 N Central Ave Suite 102, Phoenix, AZ 85004 https://www.presscoffee.com/
3. From Scottsdale we have selected one of my old favorites and still active Village Coffee Roasters. They presented an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe medium roast. I used to solely drink my fix from this coffee house and I have been a patron here for over 10 years. I like the location. The coffee has always been solid and I had to throw this special spot into the mix.
Cost Per Pound: 19$
8120 N. Hayden Rd, # E104 Scottsdale, Arizona 85258 https://villagecoffee.com/
4. From Tempe we have selected a sleeping giant Cortez Coffee. They delivered a special Nepal grown medium roast. This wholesale roaster has a simple and intimate tasting room that provides the fundamental services and products which one would come to expect however they give something more. Every time I cross the threshold into this temple I learn something new. Can this supplier keep up with the hipsters?
Cost Per Pound: 24$
1030 E Vista Del Cerro Dr. Tempe, Arizona 85281 https://cortezcoffee.com/
5. Last but not least from Tempe we have included the powerhouse Cartel Coffee. They presented a unique Rwandan grown medium roast called Nyarusiza. This juggernaut roaster has earned its stripes by slaying metaphorical dragons. Located in the heart of ASU this lab has been pumping out high quality products consistently for several years now. They have grown in both size and clout and so has the nexus of hipsters that seemly gravitate around the vortex that is Cartel. Are they still the Kings of the Valley?
Cost Per 12oz: 22$
225 W University Dr. Tempe, AZ 85281 https://cartelcoffeelab.com/
Breakdown
So the fancy chart above illustrates my personal scores for each contender. I choose 5 categories to assess with the highest possible score being a 50. None of the samples I tasted was flawless but I did award several 9’s and a single 10. I am going to try to be as polite as possible while remaining objective and straight forward, so lets get to it.
The two lowest scoring roasts where from Ground Control and Press. The beans from Ground Controls Brazilian tasted flat and unremarkable. I sensed a faint hint of nuts but was left wanting for that indicative semi sweet profile. Among the other competition this roast came off forgettable. I feel certain a professional approach to the roast was indeed applied. The coloring was rich and the quality of the beans looked solid. A visual appearance gives me the impression of sound quality but the fragrance and off gassing during the grind and brew were lacking. I would be willing to bet that this batch was old. I asked the Barista when this had been roasted and he stated “last week”. So I can only go on his word. Regardless of speculation I can also deduce from the small stock and rather scares patrons of late that they are focused more on the Restaurant and brewing side of the house and less on the store front cafe. This shop happens to be the closest to my home in proximity so I will be sure to keep checking in on this spot.
The off gassing from the Ground Control Beans.
The Press roast is another issue entirely. I have no doubt in my mind that this company can produce amazing roasts. I have been to their locations several times and have always left struck with inspiration. They have a knack for single origin beans and produce some spectacular examples of this throughout the seasons. However in this instance I took the advisement of their manager and purchased the Guatemalan. From the very moment I opened the bag I was concerned. The beans smelled fermented. I purchased this item from the store front and according to the bag and the staff it had only been a week since its roast. I am more partial to the rich and nutty flavor profiles so when the tasting notes stated grapefruit at first I was intrigued. However, after sampling this roast I am not amused. The Aroma does come off fairly sweet during the grind and while on the pallet it does reflect some nice acidity. I just cannot ignore the overly intense fermented flavor profile.
I was concerned that perhaps it was just me… so I had a couple friends try it as well with similar responses. In conclusion I believe they pushed the envelope to far in this little experiment. The coffee has an unnatural taste that begs the drinker to question their sanitation practices. In contrast perhaps these flavor profiles are what some consumers are into. If so more for them. I will continue to sample this progressive coffee establishment as their roasts typically are on point.
The Guatemalan from Press.
In third place we have Village Coffee Roasters. This was my first Phoenix favorite back in 2006. They always had a great vibe and it was located just a stones throw from where I was living in the Valley. This was the only Ethiopian of the bunch and thus I thought it was a bit unfair. The quality looks supreme and with Villages long track record and small batch roasting I was confident I would enjoy this one. The thing is I just wanted more. The best thing about this was its overall balance. Every element melded smoothly but nothing really stood out. It lacked the acidity and definitely did not stand out in the Aroma factor. The overall flavor profile was soft as well and as soon as it touched your tongue it disappeared leaving you empty and unfulfilled. All in all I would call it “safe”. Too safe considering the staff recommended this above all others. I could see this as a daily drinker but for the price point I couldn’t stomach that for long. Its been along time since Craig Sellmen ran the shop but the roast itself seems deliberate and complete. By itself its a solid coffee, but alongside these other folks they just come up short.
Ethiopian closeup
The next two coffee’s were incredibly hard to compare. They are so different in so many different ways and yet they both pull me down the rabbit hole. Lets start with the runner up. I have probably had 3 separate Rwandan coffees in my experience and I have never been left with a lasting impression as far as a region… until now. First, the beans themselves are STRANGE, (below).
It appears they have left the parchment on the greens as they roasted.
The uniformity, size, color, oils. They are all over the place and yet the magic that these small beans hold is so mystifying. The age old Cartel acidity is as strong as ever and the flavor of this roast comes in waves. Upfront initially you are touched with a sweet and lightly almost roasted fruit note. Then as the coffee opens up it slams into a nutty and roasted brown sugar profile that fills the senses. The finish is brief a tad dry but never the less enjoyable. The distinct phases of this brew is the only weakness. I feel as if they are a bit disjointed but each in its own right is pleasurable. This of course is the only coffee on the list to get a perfect 10. I genuinely resonate with the rich and bold stance this coffee delivers. The caffeine level of this bean was the highest of the five and a tad intense, but eh lazy. So while it excelled in the flavor department it lacked in the balance category.
Last but by far the most interesting roast was from Cortez Coffee in Tempe. This holistically brought everything to bear. I have never before tasted a Nepalese high altitude coffee bean, so I did not know what to expect. Boy oh boy was I blown away. The gradual and mature entrance of this coffee presents such an experience. The roasted almonds and sweet maple syrup greet you as if coming in from the cold winter air. The body of this coffee is robust and continues to slowly build into a caramelized black tea. Then as slowly as it opens up it recedes into the back of your pallet and begs you to take another sip. I really liked the visible oils that are left as a small sheen on the top of my cup. Even being a medium roast this coffee seems to bring the best out of both worlds. It illustrates that you can have that bold and nutty flavor and the sweet natural touch without the bitter finish. I won’t lie to you. This was not the greatest cup of coffee I have ever had. But this is the best cup of coffee I have had in 2019.
In Conclusion
This was a roller coaster of expectations and disappointments. I have drawn some stark conclusions and perhaps even closed the door on some opinions. There are always so many factors to consider when comparing products. What if the staff from each of these houses recommended a different roast? What if I choose a light roast? Or a Dark roast for that matter? In retrospect I feel certain that I would like to do a dark roast showdown next year. Hopefully I can find some new talent to showcase and hopefully even open your world to a new experience.
I believe Cartel and Cortez could go toe to toe. That in and of itself is surprising to me. One is an ever expanding powerhouse while the other sits in relative obscurity. I guess it just goes to show you that without drifting and experiencing new things we get complacent and you can miss out on pure moments. Keep trying new things. You never know you just might open a new chapter in your life.
ANAN Coffee Roasters
Hanoi, VN
Vietnam is an amazing country with so much to offer the world. The unique blend of cultures and ideas makes this one of my favorite places in the world. As far as coffee is concerned, there are several one of a kind experiences to be had. While in the capital I was able to explore a couple micro roasters and taste some of the Vietnamese best.
Incredible Pricing
In arguably one of the most expensive cities in Vietnam Roasted coffee can be had for less than $0.80 a pound. With specialty coffee like Kopi Luwak for around $4.50 a pound. Expect much cheaper prices as you travel south.
Just off the beaten path in downtown Hanoi you can find ANAN Coffee. They are a small store front roaster that offers locally grown coffee to locals and tourists. The prices are almost double compared to some of the larger distributors to the south. However the accessibility and assortment provided is outstanding. I felt they were trying a bit too hard to please everyone but even I found some beans I liked. This specific shop has a lot of English packaging and is aimed at those traveling dollars. With that being said you have to breakdown coffee product around the country into three categories. Instant, Espresso and Boutique.
Instant: is what your going to receive at most restaurants, cafes and street stands.
Espresso: might be found at the higher end places, hotels and premium cafes.
Boutique: is hit and miss. Like China, imitations are everywhere. Be careful and you just might find a real gem (Like the local Hanoi Egg Coffee). More often than not though you are getting hoodwinked.
In all of the Asian continent Vietnam has some of the most robust Coffee establishments and cultures. They inherited this from the French. After the Sino-French War between China and France, Vietnam was occupied in 1885 and in 1887 French Indochina was formed. In 1954 and after massive bloodshed Vietnam was released by France and with it came reformations and ideological transformations. However long after the french left their habits of cuisine, tobacco and coffee have remained.
French roasts are predominant and make up most of the coffee you will find as you travel this region. Since dark roasts are my personal preference I found this place to be spectacular.
Selection Galore
You can get anything you want. Green, Light, Medium, Dark, Espresso, Cat, Weasel, Kopi… anything.
So ANAN offers high end Boutique coffee beans. They have both green and roasted selections for you. I would recommend the locally grown beans from the Hoàng Liên region. Its a steep mountain region that has been developed with phenomenal vertical agriculture. These high altitude tropical areas provide the ideal growing zones for your red cherries. You can see this visually in the size, quality and sweetness of the raw products.
Hoàng Liên region
I was able to visit several places during my travels here and yet this spot of all stood out to me as a sound place to grab some beans. I wish to come back and sample more great roasts. This time however I will be sure to bring an empty bag so I can hoard all of the cheap commodities. The staff and environment are helpful and you will be sure to have a good time.
Its all in the nose.
A couple Months back a Co-work and I were talking about the culture of coffee. The point of contention became what makes a person a coffee snob? Was it how they liked their coffee prepared? Cold brew, Pour over, Drip, French Press, Aero Press... the list goes on.
The Coffee standard in America used to be through a peculator.* A coffee percolator is a type of pot used for the brewing of coffee by continually cycling the boiling or nearly boiling brew through the grounds using gravity until the required strength is reached. The problem with this is the beans get too hot. The water will over boil and you get a burnt or over brewed cup of joe. The standard since the 70's however is Drip coffee.
Circa 1970's Coffee Machine, Drip.
To me Drip coffee is mediocre. Depending on the machine, filter, and water you usually end up with a clean yet slightly over bitter pot. Now back in college I usually drank 4 to 5 cups of coffee a day so a 6-8 cup pot of drip coffee tended to be my go to.
Today, I drink 2 to 3 cups of coffee. 1 or two in the morning and then usually one in the afternoon or evening to power me through the rest of my day. I prefer the French Press. The ability to tightly control water temps and the lack of filtration really is my favorite. I find I get the best flavor/time/convenience/portions out of a 3 cup french press.
Does this make me a snob? Not in my opinion. In all actuality I expect everyone to have a preferred method. Of all the ways to make a cup of coffee none of the 100 different schemes to me stands out as snobbish. Then is it where you buy your coffee?
If someone tells me they exclusively drink Starbucks, and this happens all the time. I understand their position but respectfully disagree. Starbucks to me is fine. Their beans are fine. There service is good, they are over priced and they are located on every corner. So I get it. I just don't subscribe to their Kool-Aid. I have never had a cup of coffee at Starbucks and been inspired. That is really the defining factor.
Now I'm not saying you have to get your beans from a local farmer in Indonesia, then roast them yourself in your garage and serve them using a Chemex. What I preach is simple. Go out and visit different local mom and pop shops. Try different roasters. Try different blends. Experience the vast ocean of possibilities and then make a judgement call. The second you stop looking for the magic bullet is the moment you settle.
It's rare that I try a cup of coffee and get blown away. But. But! It does happen. From time to time even to this day I will walk into a Cafe and sit there in wonder as I try to decipher a new roast. Its one of my favorite feelings in life and that's what fuels my passion for coffee.
So there I was debating these details with a Co-worker when he throws out his all time favorite roast. *Note I do not usually prescribe to large online coffee retailers. However I held back my bias and purchased his recommendation. Even though it was from a major retailer and in spite of the fact I hated the addition of artificial flavors.
This is the Highlander Grogg from Coffee Bean Direct. It was very affordable and arrived within 5 business days.
Now a lot of off the shelf retailer coffee will have added artificial flavors to enhance the aroma or taste of bean. In my experience I find the flavors and aromas to be a farce. Like its spice brother cinnamon, coffee has been adulterated and molested to a place that if left unchecked would inherently ruin this beverage.
The Grogg's beans are of strong quality. The uniformity and caffeine dosage is good. The beans brew quickly and for the most part when grinding they maintain an ideal consistency (Not too much moisture or overly oily). The aroma however is something vexing. Personally I don't much care for it. It smells synthesized. Something about it reeks of artificial tampering. The warm and inviting smell of hazelnut and spices fills the air once you grind it down. However almost everyone I have served this to has mentioned how fantastic the aroma is. So maybe its just me. Maybe this is where I draw the line. My pre-judgments just wont let me get over the fact that this has been doctored up to please the people.
I was surprised, the beans looked very fresh and were all of similar size and variance. This of course lends to the assumption that they are not attempting to blend the ages of two or three batches.
But what about the taste? The first sip confirmed my suspicions. The batch is overly sweet for my taste. Now several others disagreed with my assessment however this is My Blog so... The front end of this coffee slams into your taste buds with a high fructose type sweetness. Its difficult for me to drink this warm or cold in my opinion. The body of the brew is fine with subtle notes of pecans and maybe a little semi sweet chocolate. It finally finishes the same way it started.
I understand why most casual drinkers like this. It has virtually no bitterness or bite. It also comes self sweetened so save your honey or sugar. This unfortunately just wont sit right with me. Try as I might to have an open mind I just can't buy into what they are pushing. The dots don't connect for me.
So for me its back to the basics. I plan on ordering some Intelligenstia next week and hopefully I can counter the mass market with some tasteful hipster juice. All in all I gave it the good college try. I have since given away most of these beans to my recipients delight. So its not all for naught.
Am I a coffee snob? Yes and no.
If you make me a cup of coffee I will drink it. I will smile and I will thank you for it. Do I have a preferred method of making coffee? Yes. Am I picky about the roasts that I drink? Yes. I honestly just want a good cup of coffee. If that comes from a diner on 7th St. so be it. I will strive hard to remain objective and keep my unconscious bias at bay but then again I am who I am... that's why they call them unconscious.
I took a medium roast blend they recommended with delight. The price was affordable but this in my opinion was not a Medium. The color was dark but the flavors were upfront and in your face. Then after a quick minute the caffeine hit and oh my did it. The level of eye popping rush was next level. I noticed my dialouge with my brother quickening and before long I sounded more like a crackhead and less like a gentile.
Nashville has for awhile now been an up and coming concentration of talent and vibrancy. The Music city center of the U.S. is starting to attract some of our brightest and most talented youth. The City has a fantastic locale just off the river and overlooking the hillsides. I have been hearing so much about this City My Wife and I decided to visit my brother and make a trip of it.
I got the chance to visit several Cafes while I was here but by and far above the best was Cafe Crema.
I really liked the simple and clean layout of Crema Coffee in Nashville TN
The Hipster vibe here is strong however they don't press the heavy elitism or arrogance of say a San Francisco haven. The prices are cheap here in the Tennessee. I think a regular cup of coffee here cost me around 2.65 and the cold brew that Jon Jon ordered was a reasonable 3.15. This in my opinion is right in my wheel house. They roast all their offerings in house and a quick to offer tastings or samples for first timers. The real glasses and stereotypical coffee mugs are all part of the charm. The overall feeling here is relaxed and chill. The aroma was warm, inviting and several locals were working on various work tasks in the background.
This medium blend in your face supercharged Latin American roast was pleasant and matched nicely with a morning scone.
Jon Jon enjoyed a nice cold brew. The temps were in the 80's so after a full day of walking the Cold brew helped cool him down and add a little pep in his step.
This spot didn't offer a full bodied dark roast to my dismay. How can you consider yourself a coffee house without half the genre of coffee? Well whomever is calling the shots here has something special. The spot is ideal, the layout is clean and the coffee is good. Overall I would score it a A-
Nestled just along the southern hillside Cafe Crema gives its patrons quite the view. I would love the see the snow from this patio.
Flagstaff is a special place. a liberal bastion among a mostly conservative base. This high altitude college town represents so much for myself. Its where I spent my freshman year of college. Its where I found and lost my first love. Its where I go to be reminded that there is more to Arizona than just Cacti and retirees.
Greg and I hit the road this weekend in an attempt to avoid the impending heat and delay the inevitable torture of summer. With friends a plenty we re-hashed the nostalgic memories and follies of our youth. Flag is like the tree fort in the forest. The place where you and your friends go to play and tune out the world. The pace and flow is on a much lower tempo. One that begs you to look inward. Maybe that's why there is so much creativity and artistic expression here.
It may seem like a cliché but college was where I met my mistress Java. Her warm embrace galvanized my spirit as I trudged through the snow banks only to be met by my endless course work. College was tough. I wasn't particularly smart nor motivated, which made every class feel like a marathon. I wanted to quit everyday... and when my focus seemed to dim, coffee was always there to enrich my life and give me the edge I needed for survival.
My palate, preference and tolerance was non-existent, so I did what any teenager does. I followed my friends. They seemed to know what was going on and in time I started to pick up on types of brews and styles of roasts. I was hooked. Everyday was an exploration of this liquid magic.
Then it happened. The day when I tasted a true dark roast coffee.
Late for the Train
I was sitting on the floor of my friends house. We had drank the town dry the night before and were in desperate need of salvation. My friend Larry handed me a cup (one that he himself made) and told me to "try that"
*Note: Larry is a utilitarian potter. His outlook on life is special and so is his cooking and coffee. His offerings of food and drink tend to lean on the spectacular side of things in my book.
The stoneware cup with its wood fired glaze was warm and soothing to the touch. I peaked my hungover face into the well of caffeine and saw the magical oils swirling from the recent French press pour.
I remember it being hot but not scolding. The rich bold flavor overwhelmed my meek palate and the warmth from the cup was helping me stave off a shiver. Like easing into a dream the caffeine euphoria drifted over my hangover relieving the pounding headache and upset stomach. I knew coffee felt good... but never this good.
For the past 13 years I have been falling deeper down that rabbit whole. A journey in which remarkably started right here in flagstaff. Greg and I decided to revisit this roaster and peer once again into that very same well. Would it live up to its fame? Will I still be smitten with its complexity?
So here we are. Its Saturday afternoon Greg and Nicole just steamed into town after a fantastic day at the Grand Canyon. I had just wrapped up lunch with my Friend Glen and we settled into a breezy patio outside the Late for the Train Café.
Greg went with the cold brew on tap and I choose a triple shot French espresso with a little raw cane sugar and some half and half. I learned that they no longer serve their roasts in the classic green coffee cans. Apparently they still honor refills using them but newly minted ones are limited additions and come out only as promotional items.
Our conversation was lively that afternoon. We discussed a little politics and Russian antics. Future travel plans and even immigration to Canada. The highlight of the discussion came when we loosely made plans to buy houses on the same cul de sac. This concept brought a smile to my heart.
The coffee was solid. The flavor and balance was all there. We went a little bit outside the box but on a hot afternoon like it was you can't exactly drink 175 degree drip. We looked at each other and started to dissect the product. The cold brew was smooth and tasteful but Greg thought it lacked body. He wanted more. More power more gusto just more. It was a dark roast but in a lite fashion. I on the other hand had committed molestation by adding sugar and some fatty milk to cut the bitterness of the French roast. Late for the Train is good. Its so good in our minds that It can probably do better. Granted when we first tasted this recipe we were young and dumb. 13 years does a lot to a person and to a brand.
Maybe they softened the roast. People used to complain that their coffee tasted burnt and overly bitter. However over the past few days I have drank the Sumatra and the Flagstaff roast drawing none of those conclusions. In fact I feel they have moderated their original product. I remember the vintage Smoke Jumper being closer to the edge. These feel more inline with mainstream mega brands. Then the thought hits me... maybe this is simply a case of a big fish in a small pond.
With the modern day affinity for light roasts and caffeine injections maybe the draw to dark roasts has diminished. This may just be a symptom of this rapid spreading trend. The age of dark roast coffee could be behind us and with that the depth and complexity may vanish
To me Late for the Train coffee will always have a place in my heart. However this experience has placed its beans on the mortal level. They are not the Gods of roasting as once believed, but on a cold Flagstaff morning I wouldn't take anything else. I recommend anyone in the area to swing on by and grab a cup. Draw your own conclusion and feel free to always leave a comment. Till next time. Keep drifting.
Paid 16$ and some change for this pound.