Welcome to the first Annual Best of the Best Roast challenge. I am naming it aptly “The All Valley”. My focused was to find the best Roaster in the Phoenix Area. I have hand picked 5 candidates to test. Each representing an established pedigree from the our small industry. I wanted to play it close to the chest with this one so I tried my best to source beans from all over the Metropolitan area. These contenders symbolize our cream of the crop.
Selection Process
First, I started by assembling the previous champions according past yearly award winners. I assembled the 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 Phoenix New Times title holders. Then, I selected an old favorite and lastly a hidden gem.
Secondly I constrained each Roaster to the following criteria; must be local, they must roast on site and the bean must be a consumer grade variety under 30$ a lb. No Geisha’s!
I sought to make this competition objective and fair. My hope is to highlight the local skill and art of roasting. This individualism and identity is lost in the commercialism that is modern coffee. With all of mega bean vendors and mixed crop year blends I wanted to take this assessment from a genuine standpoint. My controls for my testing were as follows. All the beans selected were roasted within 10 days of the test. All the beans selected were Medium Roasts. I selected the type of bean by simply asking the barista, “ What is your best Medium Roast?” when they replied I purchased the beans and went along my merry way. So please don’t think I have been prejudice because of the region or type. I am simply following the advice of the vendor subject matter experts.
Meet your participants:
From the West side and the 2014 Best Coffee winner we selected the established Ground Control Coffee to impress us. They brought a Brazilian medium roast from the region of Mogiana. This once darling child has since chilled off since its introduction into the area. Lets see if they are still producing some of the best java in town.
Cost Per Pound: 17$
4860 N. Litchfield Rd. Litchfield Park, AS 85340 https://groundxcontrol.com
2. From downtown we have selected the 2015 Phoenix Times best coffee roaster Press. They brought a Guatemalan medium roast called Las Flores. This ever expanding juggernaut of a Cafe chain has garnished a large following. These fans have helped establish a strong report in the Valley of the Sun. Lets see if this juice is worth the squeeze.
Cost Per 12oz: 24$
1616 N Central Ave Suite 102, Phoenix, AZ 85004 https://www.presscoffee.com/
3. From Scottsdale we have selected one of my old favorites and still active Village Coffee Roasters. They presented an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe medium roast. I used to solely drink my fix from this coffee house and I have been a patron here for over 10 years. I like the location. The coffee has always been solid and I had to throw this special spot into the mix.
Cost Per Pound: 19$
8120 N. Hayden Rd, # E104 Scottsdale, Arizona 85258 https://villagecoffee.com/
4. From Tempe we have selected a sleeping giant Cortez Coffee. They delivered a special Nepal grown medium roast. This wholesale roaster has a simple and intimate tasting room that provides the fundamental services and products which one would come to expect however they give something more. Every time I cross the threshold into this temple I learn something new. Can this supplier keep up with the hipsters?
Cost Per Pound: 24$
1030 E Vista Del Cerro Dr. Tempe, Arizona 85281 https://cortezcoffee.com/
5. Last but not least from Tempe we have included the powerhouse Cartel Coffee. They presented a unique Rwandan grown medium roast called Nyarusiza. This juggernaut roaster has earned its stripes by slaying metaphorical dragons. Located in the heart of ASU this lab has been pumping out high quality products consistently for several years now. They have grown in both size and clout and so has the nexus of hipsters that seemly gravitate around the vortex that is Cartel. Are they still the Kings of the Valley?
Cost Per 12oz: 22$
225 W University Dr. Tempe, AZ 85281 https://cartelcoffeelab.com/
Breakdown
So the fancy chart above illustrates my personal scores for each contender. I choose 5 categories to assess with the highest possible score being a 50. None of the samples I tasted was flawless but I did award several 9’s and a single 10. I am going to try to be as polite as possible while remaining objective and straight forward, so lets get to it.
The two lowest scoring roasts where from Ground Control and Press. The beans from Ground Controls Brazilian tasted flat and unremarkable. I sensed a faint hint of nuts but was left wanting for that indicative semi sweet profile. Among the other competition this roast came off forgettable. I feel certain a professional approach to the roast was indeed applied. The coloring was rich and the quality of the beans looked solid. A visual appearance gives me the impression of sound quality but the fragrance and off gassing during the grind and brew were lacking. I would be willing to bet that this batch was old. I asked the Barista when this had been roasted and he stated “last week”. So I can only go on his word. Regardless of speculation I can also deduce from the small stock and rather scares patrons of late that they are focused more on the Restaurant and brewing side of the house and less on the store front cafe. This shop happens to be the closest to my home in proximity so I will be sure to keep checking in on this spot.
The off gassing from the Ground Control Beans.
The Press roast is another issue entirely. I have no doubt in my mind that this company can produce amazing roasts. I have been to their locations several times and have always left struck with inspiration. They have a knack for single origin beans and produce some spectacular examples of this throughout the seasons. However in this instance I took the advisement of their manager and purchased the Guatemalan. From the very moment I opened the bag I was concerned. The beans smelled fermented. I purchased this item from the store front and according to the bag and the staff it had only been a week since its roast. I am more partial to the rich and nutty flavor profiles so when the tasting notes stated grapefruit at first I was intrigued. However, after sampling this roast I am not amused. The Aroma does come off fairly sweet during the grind and while on the pallet it does reflect some nice acidity. I just cannot ignore the overly intense fermented flavor profile.
I was concerned that perhaps it was just me… so I had a couple friends try it as well with similar responses. In conclusion I believe they pushed the envelope to far in this little experiment. The coffee has an unnatural taste that begs the drinker to question their sanitation practices. In contrast perhaps these flavor profiles are what some consumers are into. If so more for them. I will continue to sample this progressive coffee establishment as their roasts typically are on point.
The Guatemalan from Press.
In third place we have Village Coffee Roasters. This was my first Phoenix favorite back in 2006. They always had a great vibe and it was located just a stones throw from where I was living in the Valley. This was the only Ethiopian of the bunch and thus I thought it was a bit unfair. The quality looks supreme and with Villages long track record and small batch roasting I was confident I would enjoy this one. The thing is I just wanted more. The best thing about this was its overall balance. Every element melded smoothly but nothing really stood out. It lacked the acidity and definitely did not stand out in the Aroma factor. The overall flavor profile was soft as well and as soon as it touched your tongue it disappeared leaving you empty and unfulfilled. All in all I would call it “safe”. Too safe considering the staff recommended this above all others. I could see this as a daily drinker but for the price point I couldn’t stomach that for long. Its been along time since Craig Sellmen ran the shop but the roast itself seems deliberate and complete. By itself its a solid coffee, but alongside these other folks they just come up short.
Ethiopian closeup
The next two coffee’s were incredibly hard to compare. They are so different in so many different ways and yet they both pull me down the rabbit hole. Lets start with the runner up. I have probably had 3 separate Rwandan coffees in my experience and I have never been left with a lasting impression as far as a region… until now. First, the beans themselves are STRANGE, (below).
It appears they have left the parchment on the greens as they roasted.
The uniformity, size, color, oils. They are all over the place and yet the magic that these small beans hold is so mystifying. The age old Cartel acidity is as strong as ever and the flavor of this roast comes in waves. Upfront initially you are touched with a sweet and lightly almost roasted fruit note. Then as the coffee opens up it slams into a nutty and roasted brown sugar profile that fills the senses. The finish is brief a tad dry but never the less enjoyable. The distinct phases of this brew is the only weakness. I feel as if they are a bit disjointed but each in its own right is pleasurable. This of course is the only coffee on the list to get a perfect 10. I genuinely resonate with the rich and bold stance this coffee delivers. The caffeine level of this bean was the highest of the five and a tad intense, but eh lazy. So while it excelled in the flavor department it lacked in the balance category.
Last but by far the most interesting roast was from Cortez Coffee in Tempe. This holistically brought everything to bear. I have never before tasted a Nepalese high altitude coffee bean, so I did not know what to expect. Boy oh boy was I blown away. The gradual and mature entrance of this coffee presents such an experience. The roasted almonds and sweet maple syrup greet you as if coming in from the cold winter air. The body of this coffee is robust and continues to slowly build into a caramelized black tea. Then as slowly as it opens up it recedes into the back of your pallet and begs you to take another sip. I really liked the visible oils that are left as a small sheen on the top of my cup. Even being a medium roast this coffee seems to bring the best out of both worlds. It illustrates that you can have that bold and nutty flavor and the sweet natural touch without the bitter finish. I won’t lie to you. This was not the greatest cup of coffee I have ever had. But this is the best cup of coffee I have had in 2019.
In Conclusion
This was a roller coaster of expectations and disappointments. I have drawn some stark conclusions and perhaps even closed the door on some opinions. There are always so many factors to consider when comparing products. What if the staff from each of these houses recommended a different roast? What if I choose a light roast? Or a Dark roast for that matter? In retrospect I feel certain that I would like to do a dark roast showdown next year. Hopefully I can find some new talent to showcase and hopefully even open your world to a new experience.
I believe Cartel and Cortez could go toe to toe. That in and of itself is surprising to me. One is an ever expanding powerhouse while the other sits in relative obscurity. I guess it just goes to show you that without drifting and experiencing new things we get complacent and you can miss out on pure moments. Keep trying new things. You never know you just might open a new chapter in your life.